After my first Molly dress, it didn’t take me too long to sew up another. Although I don’t mind my first version (love the pattern, don’t love the fabric), I wanted to make another, and one in a more “me” fabric. I bought this navy and white graduated stripe fabric from Fabricland in Brighton back in November, and I wasn’t too sure whether it would make anything wearable as it feel really man made. However I love what I have ended up with.
My first Molly was a little on the short side, so this time I decided I would just add all the length I could and worry about the length later, so I positioned the front and back bodice pieces towards the top of my fabric and added a whopping 7 inches! I tried to think about pattern placement, and although it would be near impossible to pattern match these strips (which I also don’t think run exactly parallel to the grain), I did think about placing the narrower stripes on my waist, and trying to match narrow strips with narrow strips on the front and back pieces. I don’t think I did too bad of a job!
The sleeves are grown on in this pattern, with additional arm pieces. I decided for my own sanity that the stripes would run perpendicular to the strips on the main pieces, so that no pattern matching was needed. I also made sure that the narrower navy strips were in roughly the same position on both sleeves so there was some symmetry.
I sewed this dress up on my regular sewing machine with a zigzag stitch and then overlocked the seams individually. I used a twin needle to top stitch the neckband, and also I used a twin needle to hem the sleeves. But I have a confession to make I was rushing and not thinking and the 2 lines of parallel stitching are in the inside of the sleeves – Doh! I couldn’t unpick these seems very easily because its sunk right into the fabric, so I figured if I couldn’t see the stitching to unpick it, no one else would notice, I have zigzag stitching on my sleeve hems – who cares?!
So once I had nearly finished the dress I tried it on and it came to my mid-calf, 7 inches is a lot to add on! I know I wanted it around my knee, so I decided to take some scissors to it and cut off where I wanted it to sit, following a stripe as I cut. As I went around the dress and then onto the back piece the fact that the stripes don’t run totally straight became a nightmare and I managed to cut a huge amount off. I now had a very large off cut, and a very wonky hem of a dress that was shorter than my other Molly. At this point I wondered whether I should turn it into a top, but I really wanted another comfy jersey dress, so I left it, had a cup of tea and came back to it with a fresh pair of eyes. I decided my off cut could be a rather large hem band. As it was the same circumference as the dress as long as I didn’t stretch any piece I thought it would be ok. So I folded the off cut in half overlooked it to the dress and then used a twin needle to run around the hem of the dress to make sure that it lay flat. I thought this “design feature” might really annoy me, but it doesn’t bother me one bit now.